Corsica's sport climbing crags and multi-pitch climbing
A short tour of Corsica's climbing cliffs and multi-pitches
Corsica, an island of mountains and sea coast, is a paradise for nature sports in the heart of the Mediterranean. You’re in a land of character that’s sure to delight outdoor enthusiasts.
In spring, you can enjoy river kayaking and, in summer, sea kayaking.
Hiking, with paths that are famous beyond borders: the GR20, Mare e Monti, Mare e Mare.
Paragliding, with spots around Bastia and Ajaccio.
Cycle touring and its secondary roads, such as the GT20, the best known.
River rafting with its 100 canyons, including the Verghellu, Polischellu and Dardu canyons.
Of course, there’s climbing, with its multi-pitch climbing at Bavella, in the Restonica valley, and its cliffs at Gozzi, Restonica and Monte…
It would be impossible for me to describe in a few words all the climbing cliffs and multi-pitch climbing in Corsica. I’m flying over an island where any rock, any wall could become a cliff or a major route.
Rock climbing - central Corsica
Climbing in the Restonica valley
Situated at the foot of the Restonica Valley, Corte offers a wealth of climbing opportunities. You'll find about fifteen sites with levels of difficulty suitable for both beginners and experienced climbers. More than 350 routes with an average difficulty of 6a-6c, but you'll also find routes of 4 and some 8a. Shaded areas in summer: Single pitch crag of l'Oratoire, Ciucciu Altipiani sector. Crags for beginners: Single pitch cliffs of l'Ortale, Altipiani cliffs, Ciucciu cliffs. For more demanding climbers: Single pitch crags of La Bigoudaine, Sorbellu North of Corte, the crags of Francardo and Caporalino take you from granite to limestone. There are about forty routes from 5 to 7c, including the Senteur brûlée sector, the first 7a in Corsica, climbed by Pierre Pietri. The Bulinu cliff, from 5 to 7b. Towards Niolu, near the Calacuccia lake, the Cuccia cliff, from 4c to 6b. If you go south from Corte, you'll reach the Richjusa cliff by the river. In the sun or in the shade you can climb a 4 or find a good 7.
Rock climbing - northern Corsica
Climbing in the Balagne and Bastia regions
Bastia with the Teghime pass and its limestone cliffs.
Monte Canarincu and its distinctive rock, an ideal cliff for beginners.
On the cliffs of Antennes, on the shoulder separating you from the Cap Corse, there's a breathtaking view of the island of Elba, the Italian coast and, to the west, Saint-Florent with the Agriates desert and Balagne in the distance.
The cliffs of Île-Rousse are ideal for enjoying the sea and for climbing. The islands: a cliff with grades from 3 to 6b.
Want to stay by the sea?
The cliff of La Bibli in Calvi with its trad routes.
If you go inland, you'll find the Suare crag for 6c and above.
Rock climbing - south-east Corsica
Climbing in Bavella and the surrounding area
Bavella is one of the great climbing areas of Corsica. It's a magical place just waiting to see you again. Difficulties range from 4 to 9a.
The 3G sectors, such as A Cupulatta and Mescaline, take you from 7 to 8b+. These are sectors in sculpted granite, pure Bavella.
The Col de Bavella and its fifteen sectors will introduce you to more 'normal' climbing, suitable for most climbers. You'll climb from difficulty level 4 to 7.
The partially shaded Murzella offers routes from 5 to 6c.
Another summer crag, Campanelle, for 6a-6c climbers.
And there's another rock for everyone: Filetta, with grades 5 to 6.
To the north of the Bavella massif, near Chisà, is the Castellu, a granite crag with most of its routes in the 5a - 5b range.
Bavella and the surrounding area is the other must-see climbing area on your trip to Corsica.
Rock climbing - Ajaccio & Porto
Climbing Ajaccio & the Calanques de Piana
Ajaccio, Corsica's second largest city, has a number of rock-climbing sites nearby. Head for the Sanguinaires Islands;
The Terre Sacrée, where you can climb between 3 and 5c;
The Rocher des Gozzi and its Grande Vire sector for a cliff climb that can be two or even three pitches.
Another interesting sector: Saga Corsica with routes from 5c to 7c+.
Heading north, the Calanques de Piana and Porto, with their sea cliffs, are ideal on days when there are no waves, with ideal grades for swimming and climbing from 3 to 6b.
Multi pitch climbing in Corsica
Corsica in 10 multi-pich
No, Corsica is not just ten great multi-pitch climbs, there are countless of them, and each one is an invitation to discover the next.
In the Restonica and Tavignano valleys
Bella Ciao, with its river at your feet and in the shade
Esmeralda, with its sculpted granite
Shadow and light, or the invention of the perfect dihedral
Descent to Bavella
In Porto
Ambata di Melo, between the sea and the sky, with a rock of a thousand delicate shades
Enterre mon cœur, 450m of balls and more balls, by Pierre Pietri and Jean-Toussaint Casanova
In Ajaccio
The CAF route, with its friends.
In Nonza
Monte Merchio from the sea, opened by Vlad with some very nice multi-pitch